Eating ... it's important!

"My dog just won't take treats during training sessions. They’re usually food motivated at home, but the moment we step outside or start working on dog training… they stop listening, they act like I'm not there. What am I doing wrong?"

If this sounds like your experience, you're not alone. It's a common frustration! 

Here's the thing: your dog isn't being stubborn, picky, or defiant. They're actually giving you incredibly valuable information about their emotional state.

If you've ever been told that food rewards are 'bribes' check out my blog post 7 Myths About Using Food in Dog Training (and Why They’re Rubbish). These misconceptions often leave owners feeling guilty about using treats - when food is actually one of our most valuable training tools.

The food-learning connection: why it matters more than you think

Here's a fundamental principle that guides everything I do as a dog trainer: if your dog can't take food, they can't take in learning either.

This isn't just a training philosophy. It's rooted in how the canine nervous system actually works. When dogs feel unsafe, overwhelmed, or overstimulated, their body prioritises survival over everything else. And in survival mode, two things become nearly impossible: eating and learning new information.

Think about it from an evolutionary perspective. In the wild, an animal that stops to eat when they sense danger doesn't survive long. Similarly, an animal that's focused on learning complex new behaviours when they should be scanning for threats is at a significant disadvantage.

Your dog's refusal to eat during training isn't a training problem. It's communication about their internal experience at that moment.

When dogs won’t take treats: understanding arousal states

Dogs operate on different levels of arousal throughout their day, much like we do. At optimal arousal levels, they're alert but relaxed, curious but not frantic, engaged but not overwhelmed. This is the sweet spot, the zone where learning can happen.

But, when arousal levels spike too high or drop too low, several things occur:

Physical changes

• Stress hormones like cortisol and adrenaline flood their system
• Heart rate and breathing increase
• Muscles tense in preparation for fight or flight
• Digestive processes slow down or stop entirely.

Cognitive changes

• Ability to process new information decreases dramatically
• Focus narrows to immediate survival concerns
• Memory consolidation becomes impaired
• Problem-solving abilities diminish.

Behavioural signs you might notice

• Refusing treats or food they normally love
• Excessive panting, drooling, or shaking
• Hyper-vigilance - constantly scanning the environment
• Inability to settle or focus
• Repetitive behaviours like spinning or pacing
• Pulling frantically on leash or trying to escape.

Common triggers that push dogs over threshold

Understanding what pushes your dog past their comfortable arousal level is crucial for effective training. Some common culprits include:

Environmental factors

• New or overwhelming locations - busy streets
• High levels of activity or noise - dog parks
• Presence of other dogs, people, or animals - noisy events
• Weather conditions (storms, wind, extreme temperatures).

Training-related stress

• Sessions that are too long or intense
• Unrealistic expectations or pressure to perform
• Inconsistent or confusing cues
• Previous negative experiences with training.

Individual sensitivities

• Sound sensitivity (traffic, construction, other dogs barking)
• Touch sensitivity
• Motion sensitivity
• Social anxiety around strangers or other dogs
• Physical discomfort or pain (sore joints, dental issues, ear infections).

The foundation of effective training: meeting dogs where they are

This is where my approach is clear. Instead of pushing through a dog's stress signals or interpreting their inability to focus as defiance, we need to step back and address the underlying emotional state first.

Start with the environment: sometimes the solution is as simple as moving to a quieter location, increasing distance from distractions, or choosing a different time of day when your dog is naturally more settled.

Adjust your expectations: if your dog usually performs a behaviour easily at home but struggles in the park, that's not regression. That's normal. Different environments present different challenges.

Celebrate micro-victories: did your dog glance at the treat? That's progress! Did they sniff it without taking it? Yep, still progress! Did they take it but spit it out? Now, we're getting somewhere! These tiny wins build the foundation for everything else. 

And don't worry - strategic use of lots of small treats during training won't make your dog overweight. We're talking about pea-sized rewards, not full meals!

Work on arousal regulation first: before asking for stuff, help your dog find their optimal learning state. This might involve:

• Allowing time to decompress and explore
• Using calming activities like sniffing games
• Teaching specific relaxation cues
• Incorporating movement that helps release tension
• Testing their ability to respond by asking for something familiar and well rehearsed.

What this looks like in practice

Consider these two scenarios:

Scenario A: You head out along the street, immediately start asking for sits and stays, get frustrated when your dog won't take treats, escalate your voice and energy, and end the session feeling defeated.

Scenario B: You head out the door, give your dog several minutes to decompress and sniff around, observe their body language and arousal level, start with simple activities that help them settle into their stride, and only begin any formal training when they're showing signs of being ready to learn.

In Scenario A, you're likely to see the same problems session after session. In Scenario B, you're building a foundation where real learning can occur.

Signs your dog is ready to learn

How do you know when your dog has moved into their optimal learning zone? Look for these indicators:

• Taking treats readily and chewing/swallowing normally
• Soft, relaxed body posture
• Able to offer eye contact without staring intensely
• Breathing is normal (not panting excessively)
• Can perform familiar behaviours they know well
• Shows interest in their environment without being overwhelmed by it.

Building long-term success

Remember, every positive experience builds confidence and resilience for future training sessions. Every time you push a dog past their threshold and force them to "just deal with it”? You're potentially creating negative associations that will make future training more difficult.

The dogs I work with come from all backgrounds - rescue dogs with unknown histories, puppies just learning about the world, reactive dogs working through fear and anxiety, and family pets who just need some guidance. What they all have in common is that they learn best when they feel safe.

This doesn't mean we avoid all challenges or never ask dogs to work through mild discomfort. It means we build their confidence and skills gradually, always keeping an eye on their emotional state and adjusting our approach accordingly.

Moving forward: your dog's individual journey

If you're struggling with a dog who seems "impossible to train" or "food motivated at home but not anywhere else" - know that there's nothing wrong with your dog. And there’s nothing wrong with you as their guardian. You're simply dealing with a dog whose nervous system is telling them that the training environment doesn't feel safe enough for learning yet.

The solution isn't to find better treats or train harder - and it's definitely not to avoid using food altogether - when used thoughtfully, they're one of our most powerful tools for building positive associations with training. It's to become a better observer of your dog's signals, adjust your training approach to meet them where they are, and build their confidence step by step.

Every dog's journey looks different. Some need more time to decompress, others need more distance from triggers, and some need us to break down our expectations into smaller pieces. The key is patience, observation, and a willingness to adjust your approach based on what your dog is telling you.

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Working with a dog who struggles with food motivation during training? As a qualified dog trainer serving the Hutt Valley and Wellington region, I specialise in helping dogs and their families build confidence and communication skills. Let's work together to understand what your dog is really trying to tell you and develop a training plan that works for both of you. 

Contact me to schedule a consultation and start building a stronger foundation for learning.

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Looking for more insights on dog training and behaviour? Check out my blog for more tips on building better relationships with your canine companions.